The Complete Guide To Rock Climbing Grades

Rock climbing grades can be confusing and overwhelming when you are first starting out. There are a variety of different grading systems, and it can be hard to know where to begin. In this paper, I will outline the basics of rock climbing grading systems, and explain how to use them to find the right level of difficulty for you.

What Are Rock Climbing Grades?

Rock climbing grades are numerical ratings used to determine the difficulty of a climb. Climbing grades vary depending on the type and location of the climb, with outdoor rock climbing typically rated using either the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) or UIAA Scales.

Sport climbing routes are typically graded on both systems while trad climbing is usually graded using the YDS. Indoor climbing walls and bouldering gyms as well as plenty of other different types of disciplines, meanwhile, often have their own unique grading system specific to their facility; which I'll also be discussing in this article.

Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)

The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is the most common way to grade outdoor rock climbs in North America. It uses a scale of 5.0-5.15 to indicate the difficulty of a climb, with decimal points used to further differentiate between different levels of difficulty within each grade.

For example, a 5.4 indicates an easy climb, while a 5.11 is much more complicated. The fifth decimal point (5.11a, 5.11b, etc) further breaks down the difficulty of each grade into smaller increments.

UIAA Grading Scale

The UIAA scales are used to rate climbs in Europe and other parts outside North America. The scale ranges from 1-18 and is quite simple, with most climbers only ever climbing up to a grade 8.

The main difference between the two scales is that UIAA grades tend to be slightly harder than YDS grades for any given number. For instance, a 5.7 on the YDS would equate to a 6+ on the UIAA scale.

Indoor Climbing Grades

Indoor climbing walls and bouldering gyms typically have their own unique grading system to indicate the difficulty of routes. These systems are specific to each facility and vary widely, with many using color-coded holds or shapes as indicators rather than numbers.

For instance, a facility may use shapes such as triangles or circles to indicate difficulty. In this case, a triangle might indicate a grade 5 route, while a circle could be used for a grade 7.

Sport Climbing Grades

Sport climbing grades typically use a combination of both the YDS and UIAA grading systems to get a rock climbing grade. The route setter will indicate which scale they used, usually in brackets next to the grade (e.g. 5.10a/6b). This allows climbers to know the climbing ratings before a climb.

French Numerical System (FR)

The French Numerical System (FR) is the leading method of grading free climbing routes outside North America.

The degree of difficulty for a climbing route is evaluated by the FR rate, beginning at 1 (very easy) and increasing accordingly with technical complexity. The system has no upper limit.

For grades 5 and higher, a lowercase letter (a, b or c) is used to denote varying levels of difficulty. For example, 6a+ indicates more difficulty than 6a but less difficult than 6b. At the moment, the toughest route in the world has been graded 9c — an accomplishment that few have managed to achieve!

Have you ever come across a French system with an “F” in front, like "F7c+"? That's merely a notation technique mostly popularized by the British. In reality, F7c+ and 7c+ are interchangeable.

UK Trad Grad

The UK Trad Grad is a system used to grade routes that involve traditional climbing, such as placing your own protection gear. The scale ranges from 1-8, with the number indicating the difficulty and an optional letter (a,b or c) representing a variation within each level of difficulty.

For example, a 6b+ indicates a slightly harder climb than a 6b but easier than a 6c. As with the other systems, the UK Trad Grad is based on the opinion of experienced climbers and can vary from one person to another.

It’s important to note that this grading system is used exclusively for trad climbs and does not apply to sport climbing or bouldering.

Russian Climbing Grade

The Russian Climbing Grade system is relatively new, having only been developed in the last decade or so.

The grade ranges from 1-10, with 10 being the highest rating of difficulty. Each number can be further broken down into three sub-grades — low (ъ), medium (Ъ) and high (Ь) — which are indicated by the Cyrillic letters ъ, Ъ and Ь.

For example, a route that is graded 6Ь would be harder than one rated as 6Ъ but easier than one rated as 7. This system is mainly used in Russian-speaking countries such as Russia, Belarus and Ukraine.

Aid Climbing Rating System

Aid climbing is a specialized form of rock climbing that involves the use of support systems such as ladders, bolts and other equipment to ascend a route.

The Aid Climbing Rating System is used to rate these routes on a scale from A0-A5, with each number representing an increasingly difficult grade. For instance, A1 would be considered quite easy, while A5 would be very difficult.

Unlike the other systems mentioned here, there is no letter-rating system used in aid climbing as all routes are rated according to their complexity.

Ice Climbing Grades

Ice Climbing is a specialized form of climbing in which climbers ascend frozen waterfalls and ice formations; ice and mixed climbing ratings are often intertwined.

The Ice Climbing Grades are split into two categories — technical (T) and physical (P). Technical grades, which range from T1 to T6, indicate the degree of difficulty while physical grades, ranging from P1 to P6, denote the necessary strength and endurance required.

For example, a route rated T5/P3 would be technical grade 5 (quite difficult) but physical grade 3 (demanding).

Mixed Terrain Climbing Grades

Mixed terrain climbing, also known as alpine climbing, involves a combination of rock, ice and snow. The Mixed Terrain Climbing Grades range from 1-7, with the number indicating the degree of difficulty and letter (a, b or c) representing varying levels within each grade.

For example, a route rated 4c would be more difficult than a 4b but easier than a 5a. As with the other systems, these grades are based on the opinion of experienced climbers and may vary from person to person.

Alpine Climbing Grade System

The Alpine Climbing Grade System is used to rate routes in alpine terrain, including rocky faces, glaciers and ice walls. The grades range from 1-7, with each number representing a different level of difficulty.

The system also incorporates letters (a, b or c) that indicate variations within each grade — for example, a 6b would be harder than a 6a but easier than a 6c. As with the other systems, these grades are subjective and can vary from person to person.

Himalayan Grade System

The Himalayan Grade System is used to rate routes in the high mountain regions of the Himalayas. The scale ranges from 1-7 and also includes letters (a, b or c) to indicate different levels of difficulty within each grade.

For example, a 5c route would be harder than a 5b but easier than a 6a. This system is based on the opinion of experienced mountaineers and can vary from one person to another.

Climbing Commitment Grades

Commitment grades are used to rate the overall difficulty of a climb, taking into account things such as the terrain, length and technical difficulty. These grades range from 1-5, with 5 being the most difficult.

For example, a route rated 4 would require a significant level of experience and skill to complete safely. This system is subjective and can vary from one climber to another.

Comprehensive Grade Comparison Chart

To help climbers compare the different climbing grade systems, a comprehensive grade comparison chart can be found below:

Graphic: Bergefreunde

Obviously it's a bit silly to compare grades across different disciplines, because there are a lot of factors at play; you may not be able to climb a boulder equivalent to the level at which you ice climb, for example. But, for those interested, then you can compare yourself using the grade chart above.

What is The Point Of Rock Climbing Grades?

The purpose of rock climbing grades is to provide a standardized scale for measuring the difficulty of routes, boulders and other climbing challenges. By having a common reference point, climbers can more easily communicate their experiences and goals with each other. This helps to create an atmosphere of camaraderie within the climbing community.

It also gives new climbers an idea of the type of challenges they can expect on their journey. Finally, it helps to motivate climbers by providing a benchmark that they can strive to achieve.

Grades also provide an element of risk management for climbers, as routes that are too difficult for a particular climber may be avoided or attempted with extra caution. Similarly, grades help to ensure that climbers are able to recognize and prepare for the level of difficulty they will encounter on a given route.

Overall, climbing grades serve an important purpose in the rock climbing world and are essential for safe and enjoyable climbing experiences.

Who Decides The Rock Climbing Grading?

Rock climbing grades are determined by experienced climbers who have a good understanding of the route, terrain and other factors that can influence difficulty. This usually includes local climbers, as well as those with extensive knowledge of rock climbing in general.

Grades can also be modified over time if new information is discovered or the route has become more accessible to climbers. In addition, online forums and other sources of feedback can also provide valuable insight into deciding the grade of a particular route or boulder.

When it comes to indoor climbing gyms, the routes are typically graded by the staff members or route setters. They will usually consult with experienced climbers (as well as the national climbing classification system) when assigning grades, in order to get a good sense of how difficult the route actually is.

Rock Climbing Protection Ratings

In addition to the climbing grades, some routes also feature protection ratings. These provide an indication of how well-protected a route is and refer to the type and amount of gear that can be placed on it. Protection ratings range from 0 (no protection) to 4 (properly bolted route).

This system can help climbers understand the risks associated with a particular route before they attempt it.

Rock Climbing Grades Vs Bouldering Grades

There is some overlap between rock climbing and bouldering grades, but there are also some key differences.

In general, boulder routes (which usually use a v scale) tend to be much shorter than traditional rock climbing routes and therefore require more power and agility over technical skill. This means that the grading scale for bouldering tends to be more challenging than the more technical rock climbing grading scale.

For example, a V2 boulder route may feel easier than a 5.8 rock climbing route, but it still requires more power and agility to complete. Similarly, some bouldering routes can reach the level of difficulty of an 8a+ (or higher) rock climbing route even though they are shorter and require less technical skill.

If you're a boulderer, and you want to know more about boulder grades, check out my blog about them.

FAQ's

What do the different rock climbing grades mean?

The different rock climbing grades provide an indication of the difficulty and risk associated with a particular route. This helps climbers to understand what they can expect from a route before attempting it, which is important for safety purposes.

Each grade also has its own unique characteristics, so climbers should consult local sources or online resources if they have specific questions about a certain grade.

How are rock climbing grades determined?

Rock climbing grades are usually determined by experienced climbers who have an understanding of the route, terrain and other factors that influence difficulty. This includes local climbers as well as those with extensive knowledge of rock climbing in general. Grades can also be modified over time if new information is discovered or the route has become more accessible to climbers.

What is the difference between trad and sport climbing?

Trad climbing (also known as traditional climbing) refers to climbs that use natural features and require climbers to place their own protection. This type of climb is often considered more difficult than sport climbing, which uses fixed bolts or other types of anchors placed in the rock beforehand. Sport climbs tend to be easier due to the presence of pre-placed protection, but they can still be quite challenging and require a very high level of skill.

What is the most difficult rock climb in the world?

The most difficult rock climb in the world is considered to be "The Path" (V16) in southwestern Wyoming. This route was first climbed by Jimmy Webb and is considered the pinnacle of modern-day bouldering. It has been described as "an improbable sequence of crimps, pinches, and dynamic moves that can only be completed by the strongest and most accomplished climbers."

Other difficult climbs can be found around the world, including “Spectre” (V15) in Switzerland and “The Final Cut” (V14) in Scotland.

Who was the first person to free solo El Capitan?

The first person to free solo El Capitan was Alex Honnold. He completed the feat in June 2017, becoming the first person ever to climb the famous 3,000-foot granite monolith without ropes or safety gear. His successful ascent was documented in a popular 2018 film called “Free Solo” which won an Academy Award for best documentary.

What is the difference between bouldering and lead climbing?

Bouldering is a type of climbing that takes place on shorter, less technical routes with the goal of completing them without using any rope or harnesses. Lead climbing, on the other hand, involves ascending a route while clipped into a rope for safety purposes and placing protection (such as bolts and cams) along the way.

Lead climbing tends to be more difficult than bouldering since it requires the climber to use more technical gear and techniques, such as placing protection or using specific belay systems. Additionally, lead climbing typically takes place on taller routes that require greater time commitment and mental focus.

What is the difference between indoor and outdoor rock climbing?

Indoor rock climbing typically takes place in a controlled environment where the routes are specifically set and climbers’ safety is ensured. Outdoor climbing, on the other hand, involves tackling natural obstacles and requires more technical knowledge due to unpredictable weather conditions or terrain.

Additionally, outdoor climbing often requires more advanced gear such as static ropes, carabiners and lead protection.

Indoor climbing is generally seen as simpler and more accessible than outdoor climbing, so it can be a great starting point for new climbers. However, those looking for an even greater challenge may find that outdoor rock climbing provides an incomparable experience.

What are some of the best rock climbing spots in the world?

Some of the best rock climbing spots in the world include Yosemite National Park in California, Smith Rock State Park in Oregon, El Potrero Chico in Mexico and Finale Ligure in Italy. Other great locations for climbers include Kalymnos in Greece, Railay Beach in Thailand and Fontainebleau Forest in France.

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