What is a Cam Climbing Device? – Climbing Equipment You Need

Climbing is a great way to get outdoors and enjoy the natural world while also getting a good workout.

But before you can start climbing, you need to have the proper climbing gear. In this article, I'll discuss the different types of cam climbing devices that are available and what each one is used for.

What is a Cam Climbing Device in Rock Climbing?

What is a Cam Climbing Device?: A cam is a device placed in parallel-sided cracks or other spaces to protect while ascending a rock face.

Cams are also known as Friends because they were first developed by British climbers Joe Brown and George Lowe in the 1960s. Many different types and sizes of cams are available on the market today, but they all serve the same purpose: to protect the climber.

What Are the Different Types of Cams in Rock Climbing?

There are a few different types of cams available on the market; spring-loaded cams, passive cams, and auto-locking cams. I'll talk a little about them and what climbing/climbers they are best suited for.

Spring Loaded Cams

The first type of cam is the spring-loaded cam. These are the most common cams and are typically used for trad climbing. They get their name because they have a spring inside that helps keep the cam in place. The main advantage of these types of cams is that they are effortless to use and they are also very lightweight.

Passive Cams

The second type of cam is the passive cam. These cams do not have a spring inside them and are typically used for sports climbing. The advantage of these cams is that they are much more versatile than spring-loaded ones. They can be used in various situations and are also much more durable.

Auto-Locking Cams

Auto-locking cams are similar to passive ones, but they have an auto-locking mechanism that prevents the cam from moving when it is not used. This is an excellent feature for those who want to be able to use their cams in a variety of different situations.

Offset Cams

Offset cams are designed for use in cracks that are not perfectly parallel. Offset cams are great for those who want to be able to protect themselves in a variety of different situations.

Flexible Stemmed Cams

The last type of cam we will discuss is the flexible stemmed cam. These cams are designed for use in cracks that are not perfectly straight. The advantage of these types of cams is that they are much more versatile than the other types of cams. They can be used in a variety of different situations, and they are also much more durable.

Which Cam is Right For You?

Now that you know the different types of cams, it is time to choose the right one for your needs. For example, if you are going to be doing trad climbing, you will want to get a spring-loaded cam. On the other hand, if you plan on doing sport climbing, you will want to get a passive cam. And if you use your cams in various situations, you will want to get an auto-locking cam.

Consider the Size of Your Hands

No matter what cam you choose, ensure that you get one that is the right size for your hands. You want to avoid getting a too big or too-small cam. You also want to ensure that the cam you choose is comfortable. There are various brands and models of cams on the market, so you should be able to find one that fits your needs perfectly.

The Rock Face Your Climbing

When purchasing cams, you will be climbing the size of the rock face. If you plan on doing some big wall climbing, you will need larger cams. More petite cams are better suited for trad climbing and sport climbing routes.

The Type of Rock You're Climbing

The next thing to consider is the rock you will be climbing. Softer rocks, such as sandstone or limestone, require different types of cams than harder rocks, such as granite or basalt. So make sure to purchase cams designed for the type of rock you will be climbing.

Think About The Level of Protection You Need

Finally, you need to decide what level of protection you need. If you are a beginner climber, you may want to purchase single-axis cams. These cams have a single camming lobe that is placed in the rock face.

As you climb higher, the cam expands and locks into place, providing support. If you are an experienced climber, purchase triple-axis cams. These cams have three camming lobes that offer protection in three different directions. This gives you more support and stability as you climb.

Consider Cam Lobes

The cam lobe is the part of the cam that comes into contact with the rock. The lobe is designed to grip the rock and support the climber.

There are two types of lobes: single-axis and triple-axis. Single-axis cams have one lobe that is placed in the rock face. Triple-axis cams have three lobes that provide support in three different directions.

Cams with a Large Expansion Range

When choosing cams, you also want to consider the expansion range. The expansion range is the difference between the smallest and largest camming angles. Cams with large expansion ranges are more versatile and can be used in various situations, requiring you to carry fewer cams.

How Strong is a Climbing Cam?

Climbing cams are designed to be solid and durable. They are made from high-strength metals, such as aluminum, that can withstand a lot of force. The cams also have teeth that grip the rock face, providing additional support.

How Secure are Climbing Cams?

Climbing cams are a type of climbing equipment that is used to secure oneself while climbing. They are inserted into cracks in the rock and expand to hold the climber in place.

Climbing cams are less secure than other climbing equipment, such as bolts. As a result, they can be pulled out of the rock if the climber falls or applies too much force. This can result in serious injuries or worse.

How to Place Climbing Cams - A Step-By-Step Guide

Cam placements are significant if you want to be as safe as possible on a crack. When placing climbing cams, choosing the right size and type of cam for the situation is essential. The wrong size or type of cam can result in the cam being pulled out of the rock, which can lead to severe injuries.

Let's get into a typical cam climbing placing scenario:

1. The first step in choosing the right cam is determining the crack's width. The width of the crack will select the size of the cam. The next step is to choose the right type of cam for the situation.
2. If placing the cam in a horizontal crack, you will want to use a single-axis cam. If placing the cam in a vertical crack, you will want to use a triple-axis cam.
3. Once you have chosen the right size and type of cam, you need to insert it into the crack. Ensure the cam is inserted as far into the crack as possible. The next step is to expand the cam by twisting the handle. The more you turn the handle, the wider the cam will become.
4. Once the cam is in place, you need to clip a carabiner into the loop at the end of the cam. The carabiner will keep the cam in place if you fall.
5. You also need to clip your rope into the other end of the carabiner. This will help to catch you if you fall.
6. When you finish placing the cam, you need to test it to ensure it is secure. Pull on the carabiner to see if the cam moves. If the cam does not move, then it is secure.
7. If the cam moves, you need to remove it and try again. Make sure that you stay on the cam. This can cause the cam to break.
8. Once you have placed the cam, you can continue climbing. Always test your cams before you put your full weight on them.

FAQs - Cam Climbing

What Is a Cam Set?

A cam set is a collection of cams in different sizes. This allows you to have the right size cam for any situation.

How Many Cams Do I Need?

It depends on the route that you are climbing. For example, if you are climbing a long route, you will need more cams than climbing a short one. Therefore, it is a good idea to have at least six cams with you when you climb.

Why Are Climbing Cams Called Friends?

Cams are also known as Friends because they were first developed by British climbers Joe Brown and George Lowe in the 1960s.

What Is a Spring-Loaded Camming Device Used For?

Spring-loaded camming devices, or SLCDs, are used to protect against falls. They are placed in cracks in the rock and expand when weight is applied to them. This helps to hold the climber in place if they fall.

How Do I Clean My Climbing Cams?

You can clean your climbing cams with a brush and soapy water. Rinse them well to remove all of the soap. You can also use a degreaser to clean your cams.

How Long Do Climbing Cams Last?

With proper care, climbing cams can last for many years. However, they will eventually need to be replaced. Inspect your cams regularly to make sure that they are not damaged.

Do Climbing Cams Work?

Climbing cams can be effective at protecting against falls, but they are less secure than other types of climbing equipment. As a result, they can be pulled out of the rock if the climber falls or applies too much force. This can result in serious injuries or worse.

What Is the Difference Between a Single-Axis and a Triple-Axis Cam?

A single-axis cam has one axis of rotation, while a triple-axis cam has three axes of rotation. As a result, triple-axis cams are more secure than single-axis ones and better suited for use in vertical cracks.

What Does Cam Mean in Climbing?

A cam is a device that is used to protect against falls. It is inserted into a crack in the rock and expanded with a handle. This helps to hold the climber in place if they fall.

What Are the Three Main Types of Protection Used in Climbing?

Cams, nuts, and tricams are the three main types of protection used in climbing. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

What Do Climbers Use for Safety?

Climbers use various safety devices, including cams, nuts, tricams, and helmets. These devices help to protect the climber in the event of a fall.

What Is Passive Protection in Climbing?

Passive protection is any device used to protect against falls without needing the climber to do anything. This includes cams, nuts, and tricams. Active protection requires the climber to do something, such as clip into a rope.

How Do Camming Devices Work?

Camming devices work by expanding when weight is applied to them. This helps to hold the climber in place if they fall.

How Much Does a Cam Monitor Cost?

A cam monitor is a device used to check the tension in a cam. It can be purchased for around $30.

What Are Chocks in Climbing?

Chocks are small devices that are used to protect against falls. They are placed in cracks in the rock and expand when weight is applied to them. This helps to hold the climber in place if they fall.

What Replaced Pitons?

Pitons are no longer used in climbing. Instead, they were replaced by more modern devices, such as cams and nuts.

What Are Stoppers Used for in Climbing?

Stoppers are small devices that are used to protect against falls. They are placed in cracks in the rock and expand when weight is applied to them. This helps to hold the climber in place if they fall.

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