Scarpa Chimera Review – Climbed & Tested

Stop your search for tough climbing shoes--Scarpa has got you covered.

Today we’ll look at one of their most loved models: The Scarpa Chimera.

Not only have I tested this shoe, but I have also worn it for countless ascents and rappels, and still carry it around with me for tough terrain.

Let’s get into the Scarpa Chimera Review…

Scarpa Chimera Review - A Complete Climbing Shoe Review

Reviewing the Scarpa Chimera is tough because it's easy to sound like a fan, and while this shoe definitely performs well, I don't want to gush about it too much.

The Chimera is the product of Scarpa shoe genius Heinz Mariacher and is, without exaggeration, the best climbing show on the market. Every detail about them oozes quality and next-level credentials.

They're so bright that they're gaudy, downturned to the point of being comical and soft to the point where you wonder if you could just crumble them up in your hand. When compared to a 5.10 Anasazi, they look like shoes meant for an entirely different sport.

Climbing shoes typically have more difficulty when used on hard vertical rocks, and trads. However, they are meant to be utilized for difficult double-digit boulders or sport climbs in the 5.14 range and above region.

With that being said, I found that they can do almost anything well if your footwork is descent--making them a tool-changing game

The Scarpa Chimera Toe Box

The secret to their success? The toe. It gets its power from a special rand--an arrangement of eight separate strips that work together to create tension around the entire foot when the laces are pulled tight.

The toe of the shoe is blunted, with a shape similar to your actual foot--wider and flat at the top of the big toe, then gradually tapering back in a smooth curve. But it's not just the rubber interaction with the toe that makes this shoe so impressive; The 'smedge' is an edge that also smears onto the rock, created when the rubber compresses under weight and the initially sharp edge under the big toe deforms onto small footholds.

The result is an improved No-Edge technology found in La Sportiva shoes – a grip that provides both precision and stickiness.

This product's innovative design does not include laces, providing a sock-like feel to the shoe without compromising on its toe-hooking capabilities – which means that it can perform on marginal scums as well as deeper toe hooks.

The Scarpa Chimera Heel

The tensioning system design keeps the heel secure and tight to your foot, making it a high-performance product. The shoe will make you feel as if it's glued onto your foot, which makes heel-hooking much easier and more powerful

I believe that you can hangs upside down with these shoes without any fear of slippage.

The heel of the shoe is also low-volume, meaning it never feels clunky or over-sized for small features. I didn’t note any bagginess in the heel, and overall most climbers seem to concur that the fit is exceptional, including around the heel.

The Scarpa Chimera Rubber

There is no better way to use rubber on a shoe than what Scarpa has done with the Chimera – it takes the same XS Grip 2 that is found in other shoes and applies it with such precision that it creates a reinforced rubber sock. This gives the wearer of the shoe unparalleled performance.

The ability to 'smedge' is extremely important for this shoe, as mentioned earlier. It feels well-worn and comfortable, like a shoe you've been breaking into for months, but the rubber is still soft and provides a good grip.

Though the shoes do eventually wear down, this fact does not take away from their quality or performance. They still work great for most footholds, especially on steep ground or friction-based indoor and outdoor holds.

Scarpa Chimera - How They Fit

The shoe's fit is key, as it shapes closely and naturally around your foot for maximum sensitivity with the help of the rand tensioning system and lacing.

This shoe is probably best for people with narrower feet, but the lacing allows you to adjust the fit for different types of feet. Even though it's a performance shoe with a very tight fit, it's incredibly comfortable on long routes.

The design of the shoe molds to your foot, making it comfortable even when brand new-- as long as you don't size so aggressively that your toes cramp.

Value For Money

The Chimera is a great value for money and performs exceptionally well, consistently providing a good grip on both indoors and outdoors.

It has a long life span, meaning that you won't have to buy new shoes every few months. In addition, it's also relatively affordable compared to other high-end climbing shoes.

FAQs

Scarpa Chimera vs Scarpa Instinct

The Scarpa Chimera is designed for more precise, technical climbing with its edging capabilities and "smedge" ability.

The Instinct, on the other hand, is a much softer shoe that favors smearing over edging. It has a lower-volume fit which makes it ideal for small foot holds or slabs.

The Instinct is also slightly more affordable than the Chimera.

In conclusion, if you are looking for a technical shoe with great edging capabilities and a sticky rubber that will last for many climbs, the Scarpa Chimera is an excellent choice. It offers good value for money and performs exceptionally well on all types of terrain. However, if you are looking for a softer shoe with a lower-volume fit then the Scarpa Instinct may be the better choice.

Regardless of which model you choose, both shoes offer great performance and will help you reach your peak climbing potential.

Scarpa Chimera - Verdict

No matter what you're doing, these shoes will help take your performance to the next level. The only downside is that they can be a bit bright, but if that's not an issue for you, they're definitely worth checking out.

The Chimera from Scarpa is a great all-round shoe that provides excellent precision, power, and comfort for all levels of climbing; whether you're bouldering in the wild or you're inside the gym, these shoes will help you reach your goal and won't break your bank.

How Do You Size a Scarpa Chimera?

The best way to size a Scarpa Chimera is by following the manufacturer’s sizing chart and measuring your foot length and width. The toe box should be snug but not painful while you’re wearing them.

Are Scarpa Instincts Aggressive?

Yes, the Scarpa Instincts are considered to be an aggressive shoe, best suited for steep terrain or overhanging bouldering. They provide precision and power in toe hooking situations, making them an ideal choice for experienced climbers who climb at a high level of difficulty.

Is Scarpa a Good Climbing Brand?

Yes, Scarpa is a highly reputable climbing brand that has been around for over 60 years. Their shoes are well-known for their comfort and performance, making them great for all levels of climbers. They also have a wide range of options to choose from, so you can find the perfect shoe for your needs.

Are Scarpa Drago's comfortable?

Yes, the Scarpa Dragos are considered to be very comfortable. They provide excellent heel and toe hooking capabilities due to their design which includes a sticky rubber sole with an adjustable fit system. The shoe is also very lightweight and breathable so your feet won't get too sweaty or uncomfortable during long climbing sessions.

Are SCARPA Boots Wider Than La Sportiva?

Yes, SCARPA boots are typically wider than La Sportiva. SCARPA utilizes a medium-width fitting while La Sportiva tends to have a narrower fit.

Should I Size Down In SCARPA Climbing Shoes?

It depends on your preference and the style of shoe you are buying, but in general, it is recommended to size down one-half size when purchasing SCARPA climbing shoes. This will help ensure that the shoe fits snugly and provides maximum precision when climbing.

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