La Sportiva Theory Review – Climbed & Tested

As a climber, I was excited to try the La Sportiva Theory shoes. I had heard great things about them and was curious to see if they lived up to the hype.

I have now had the opportunity to test them out on various routes and can say that they are a great shoe. They are comfortable, perform well, look good, and excel when it comes to complex hooks.

Here is my full La Sportiva Theory Review...

The La Sportiva Theory Review - A Complete Climbing Shoe Review

The Theory is ideal for people who want to work on their indoor climbing skills or shorter routes. The sticky rubber provides more stability when gripping poor holds and makes smearing much easier.

The downturned shape of the Theory's toe box and stable midsole make it ideal for toe hooking, while the precise heel cup supports heel hooks. The rounded No Edge sole helps to encourage forefoot flex, which is also valuable for toe hooking.

However, the Theory's minimal design is less suited for longer routes. Projects requiring a lot of pressure on the feet and precise edging would similarly not be the best match for this shoe.

Still, the shoe holds its own when edging on shorter routes. Looking for a shoe that excels during speed climbing, modern bouldering, or on steep terrain? For styles like these, it’s one of the best shoes I've tried across the board.

The La Sportiva Theory is a climbing shoe that excels in indoor bouldering, modern competition climbing, and steeper terrain. However, it also performs well on outdoor boulder routes.

The Theory, like many other La Sportiva shoes, has an aggressive profile and downturned shape. This position stabilizes the foot when hooking moves are made with both the heel and forefoot.

This shoe's soft leather upper and flexible midsole provides good feedback and give your feet the support they need when edging--thanks to the rounded underfoot edge. This design helps keep your foot balanced while on small holds.

Comfort & Fit

La Sportiva's Theory climbing shoe body combines 90% rubber and leather. This combination allows for a snugger, more aerodynamic fit but doesn't provide much stretching room.

I discovered that the shoes ran small, so it was best to go two or three sizes smaller than your street shoe size. The shoe's profile is slim and better suited for climbers with narrower feet.

I would also say that the La Sportiva Theory provides a sock-like fit, especially when you secure the velcro strap. The shoes are more or less comparable to another model by La Sportiva (the Skwama) in shape and size.

The main difference is that the Theory has a heel cup that molds more snugly to your heels. So, if you have larger heels, this might cause some discomfort when wearing the Theory brand.

The glove-like fit of the La Sportiva Theory is crucial to its performance. The shoe's tightness makes it exceptionally good for edging, aiding in structure and form when placed into difficult positions or on narrow holds.

The La Sportiva Theory climbing shoe is soft like a Futura style shoe, which can be positive or negative depending on your preferences.

The trade-off for less support is that the shoe is more forgiving for climbers with wider feet. This is because the shoe doesn’t compress the toes or midfoot as much due to its softness.

The La Sportiva Theory's fit runs small and narrow. I suggest going two sizes down from your street shoe size. The shoe is best suited for intermediate to advanced climbers who prefer a soft, sock-like fit.

Sensitivity

The La Sportiva Theory's softness makes it an incredibly sensitive shoe.

It is one of the most sensitive shoes I've tried. The soft leather upper and flexible midsole are ideal for steeper boulder problems and routes. The minimal design makes it an excellent choice for shorter routes and speed climbing.

Performance

The La Sportiva Theory's softness and sensitive nature make it an excellent choice for steeper boulder problems and routes.

Edging

La Sportiva's Theory model is excellent for edging difficulties, but there are a few conditions to consider. The shoe uses No Edge technology to keep tension on almost all holds except the thinnest ones. Additionally, La Sportiva has designed the shoe with a low-volume heel and beveled edge on the midsole.

This design choice makes the shoe sleek and able to handle tension on small holds well while also creating what is necessary for edging on tiny holds.

However, I must point out one of the Theory's most unfortunate drawbacks: a lack of support. The areas in which the Theory excels might come at the cost of comfort for some users.

With these shoes, you can edge onto any hold imaginable, but it might be uncomfortable to do so for an entire day. If you're planning on a longer route or project requiring constant edging, you should switch to a more supportive and minimalistic shoe.

Smearing

The Theory also does exceptionally well in the area of smearing. For those unfamiliar, smearing is a technique used while climbing where your forefoot is planted on the rock face. In general, softer shoes work best for this method, and the Theory capitalizes on that fact.

Not only does the rubber grip well, but it also is sticky enough to create friction on more complex moves. We felt confident and secure while rock climbing in these shoes, even when the holds were not as sturdy.

Hooking

The Theory was created with both heel hooking and toe hooking in mind. Its numerous features make these maneuvers much more accessible than other models.

For example, the Theory has a large toe-scumming patch on the forefoot. This allows you to create more friction between the shoe and the hold to stay in position while toe-hooking.

Value for Money

The La Sportiva Theory is an expensive shoe, but it is worth the money.

This shoe is designed to perform well in various situations, from sport climbing to bouldering. La Sportiva has also created a sensitive and soft shoe while providing enough support for all-day comfort.

The La Sportiva Theory is an excellent choice for climbers who want a versatile and comfortable shoe. However, its high price tag might be off-putting for beginners or casual climbers.

La Sportiva Theory vs. Solution Comp

I have both the theory and solution computer programs. They serve different purposes and are used for different tasks.

The Solution Comp is an excellent bouldering shoe that usually provides enough support for slab and flexibility for overhanging stuff. Although, there are times when it's not supportive or flexible enough for those things. But overall, the solution comp is fantastic (and the heel is much better than other Solutions I've had).

Theory shoes are perfect for moves that require delicate and precise footwork, like toe hooks. I had a move I was trying to do the other day that involved placing my heel on one side of the rock and my toes on the opposite side, and I couldn't do it in my Solution Comps but could in my Theory.

However, because the rubber is so thin, Theory shoes don't last as long as some other types of climbing shoes.

My bottom line is that I think the Theory is practical and a fantastic shoe, but it isn't an everyday shoe or even one to break out for send attempts - it's a highly specialized tool for specific applications.

La Sportiva Theory vs. Skwama

If you plan on standing on small, technical foot holds, hooking at tiny edges, and enjoying a solid heel design, the Solution might be the right shoe for you.

The Skwama has become a popular indoor climbing shoe because it is sensitive and can smear and stick to large surface areas on slabby routes.

La Sportiva Theory vs. Scarpa Drago

The Scarpa Drago is a good choice for those who want a shoe designed for bouldering. It has a downturned toe and a sticky rubber sole that is perfect for those who want to stay on small holds.

However, the Scarpa Drago is not as comfortable as the La Sportiva Theory and does not have as much padding. This can make it difficult to wear for extended periods.

The La Sportiva Theory is the better choice for those who want a versatile and comfortable shoe that can be used for all types of climbing. The Scarpa Drago is a good choice for those who want a shoe designed for bouldering.

La Sportiva Theory Review - Verdict

The La Sportiva Theory is a versatile and comfortable shoe that can be used for all types of climbing. La Sportiva has also created a sensitive and soft shoe while providing enough support for all-day comfort.

The La Sportiva Theory is an excellent choice for climbers who want a versatile and comfortable shoe. However, its high price tag might be off-putting for beginners or casual climbers.

Does La Sportiva Theory Stretch?

Unlined, so it can stretch a little bit, but La Sportiva recommends that you buy your usual Sportiva size.

How Much Do La Sportiva Theories Stretch?

La Sportiva Theories can stretch a little note so much that it will make such a difference.

Can La Sportiva Theory Be Resoled?

La Sportiva Theory can be resolved, just like all La Sportive shoes.

Are Theory Shoes Comfortable?

The La Sportiva Theory is a comfortable shoe. However, its high price tag might be off-putting for beginners or casual climbers. La Sportiva has also created a sensitive and soft shoe while providing enough support for all-day comfort.

La Sportiva Theory Review – Climbed & Tested was originally published to Rock Climbing Life

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