La Sportiva Otaki Review – Climbed & Tested

La Sportiva climbing shoes are widely regarded as some of the best ones money can buy. If you're serious about rock climbing, you know that high-quality equipment is crucial to your success and safety.

Today we'll look at one of their most popular models: La Sportiva Otaki.

Climbed and tested by yours truly, this shoe is for those who need support and structure when scaling a rock face, wall, or boulder.

Let's get into my La Sportiva Otaki Review...

La Sportiva Otaki Review - A Complete Climbing Shoe Review

For the past several years, I have continuously improved my climbing abilities. Recently, I decided to purchase a new pair of shoes and test them out. My first pair when I was a beginner was La Sportiva Tarantula shoes- which served me well during my early days of exploring climbing.

I have tried other models, like the Anasazi VCS by 5.10 and the Simond Rock+. I was happy with the Simond Rock+, but I wanted to get a pair of shoes that were more aggressive. After months of research, I decided to buy the Otaki from La Sportiva.

The Otaki climbing shoe is perfect for those who need support and structure when scaling a rock face, wall, or boulder. Its new construction method offers the best of both worlds – the snug fit of a slipper with the precision and volume regulation of a hook & loop closure shoe.

With this solution, you'll get maximum sensitivity and precision--even during torsion. The shoe perfectly follows the climber's movements, eliminating empty volumes and rigid zones. Plus, the Innovative S-Heel allows for perfect torsion stability while accentuating performance and adaptability in heel hooks when bouldering

Fit and Comfort

A shoe with a downturned toe will usually be less comfortable than a neutral climbing shoe. But, as with any shoe, try it before buying it to ensure the best fit for your foot type. The La Sportiva Otaki has more space in the front part of the shoe.

The Otaki was designed with a more aggressive last but still has the versatile usability of an all-around shoe like the Simond Rock+. The Otaki's more comprehensive build lets your foot sit comfortably in the shoe even though its shape is more aggressive.

The Otaki has just the right amount of stiffness in the midsole, making it versatile enough to use for various activities.

After reading many reviews and extensive research on sizing, I finally bought the Otaki. As a reference, my Simond Rock+ shoes are size 44 and fit snugly but are comfortable enough to allow me to climb without issue. My trail runners, the La Sportiva Bushido, are size 46.

I also tried on the La Sportiva Solution in size 43 and the Kataki in size 43, but I experienced a lot of pain while wearing both shoes. Therefore, considering all of this, I decided to order the Otaki in size 44.

The fit of the Otaki is snug and comfortable, so sometimes I think that size 43.5 would be ideal for me. Although, when using them on sports climbing routes that are over 20 meters long, I start to feel pressure on my feet.

Performance

The Otaki has an asymmetrical last that is stronger than average, which perfects your footing by putting more pressure on the big toe. The S-heel technology also allows you to heel hook perfectly every time.

The heel is supportive and versatile, making it a good choice for anyone. The toe has extra protection to help keep your toes safe when hooking. I recommend this product to beginner and expert climbers because the Vibram sole provides a good grip but isn't as durable as some other soles on the market.

The P3 System is designed to keep you well-shod for the long run. With a hook and loop fastener, it can be adjusted to your foot's specific shape for a more comfortable fit that's easy to get on and off.

The Otaki by La Sportiva is a versatile shoe, performing best on slabs and overhangs but still managing to provide adequate support on lower grades where there are more holes and pockets in the wall.

I feel more comfortable in the Otaki shoes while I'm climbing, which is important to me. The Simond Rock+ is more comfortable overall, but the Otaki provides a good balance between comfort and performance.

Design and Materials

La Sportiva is renowned for its cutting-edge design in regards to climbing gear and shoes. In terms of appearance, though, I feel that La Sportiva pales compared to Black Diamond.

The Otaki features the traditional La Sportiva bright colors, as well as excellent attention to detail. Nevertheless, I find this style to be outdated. More climbers nowadays prefer less conspicuous shoes and gear; because of that, I anticipate that La Sportiva will soon introduce a line with more subdued colors.

La Sportiva created a molded plastic piece called the P3 system, which functions as a depression under the shoes' front. In addition, to keep the shoes in their downturned position throughout their lifetime, it also strengthens toe box edging.

The Otaki line of climbing shoes is perfect for edges and pockets while keeping your feet comfortable. The moderate asymmetry is also design-friendly, allowing for a wide range of potential color schemes.

La Sportiva Otaki Review - Verdict

The Otaki is a versatile all-around shoe that is comfortable enough to use for a variety of activities. I recommend this product to beginner and expert climbers because the Vibram sole provides a good grip but isn't as durable as some other soles on the market.

La Sportiva created a molded plastic piece called the P3 system, which functions as a depression under the shoes' front. In addition, to keep the shoes in their downturned position throughout their lifetime, it also strengthens toe box edging.

The Otaki line of climbing shoes is perfect for edges and pockets while keeping your feet comfortable. The moderate asymmetry is also design-friendly, allowing for a wide range of potential color schemes.

I feel more comfortable in the Otaki shoes while I'm climbing, which is important to me. The Simond Rock+ is more comfortable overall, but the Otaki provides a good balance between comfort and performance.

Does The La Sportiva Otaki Stretch?

The La Sportiva Otaki is a shoe that is designed to stretch. The P3 system is specifically designed to allow the shoe to adapt to your foot's specific shape. Additionally, the hook and loop fastener makes it easy to adjust the fit of the shoe as needed.

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