La Sportiva Futura Review – Climbed & Tested

La Sportiva climbing shoes are perfect for anyone who wants top-tier gear. With an outstanding reputation, La Sportiva will make sure you're well-equipped for any challenge.

Today we’ll look at one of my favorite models: La Sportiva Futura.

The next time you're searching for a bouldering and sports climbing shoe, the La Sportiva Futura should be on your watchlist.

Let's find out why is this La Sportiva Futura Review...

La Sportiva Futura Review - A Complete Climbing Shoe Review

The Futura improves upon the success of its ultra-soft predecessor, the slipper-style Speedster. This shoe has several features that I love for both bouldering and sport climbing. I have used it for years and swear by its comfort and performance.

Although all three No-Edge shoes serve different purposes, they are each unique and hold their own value. The Speedster and the Futura are more specialized shoes, while the Genius can be used in a variety of contexts.

So, you may be wondering what this No-Edge technology is that everyone keeps talking about. Historically, most manufacturers and gear reviews have advocated for a lazer-cut edge because it can stand on a dime and cut through a block of cheese with ease.

In contrast, the No-Edge design takes an entirely different approach by contouring to the natural shape of your foot rather than having hard edges at the front and sides. There is also a thin layer of rubber that covers the toe area instead of a defined edge.

This shaping allows for a more constant volume in the toe box, so climbers can be closer to the rock face. With greater sensitivity and power transmission, this provides climbers with an improved ability to apply pressure evenly to footholds regardless of orientation.

The Futuras are great for steeper problems, above pads or on bolts, because of their asymmetric last and downturned profile. However, they really come to life when onsight climbing since you're not able to use all the holds in the best way without rehearsal. For ambitious trad and sport climbers, No-Edge shoes are an excellent choice when trying to climb something new.

The Futura's soft midsole doesn't just look good--it provides top-notch support on hostile footholds and shallow dishes that other shoes wouldn't be able to handle. You might not think it matters when you're rock climbing indoors, but this unique feature prevents holds of all shapes and sizes from giving you the slipping away blues.

No-Edge shoes provide wearers with adequate edge support. However, the majority of climbers will likely prefer the Genius model on edges over No-Edge, unless they have strong toes to make up for the softer midsole.

Lightweight climbers (<40kg) may find that Futuras are more suited for their needs on edges; due to its softness, it allows for greater sensitivity than the harder Genius model.

The La Sportiva Futura - Toe Box

A modern toe patch is conspicuously absent on most performance models of Futuras.

Toe hooking technique and how you position your body is more important than the amount of rubber on your shoes when attempting a toe hook maneuver outside. I've found this to be true while using Futura's on granite and limestone. The toe patch can hold up to an awesome toe hook or two with proper technique.

When you're indoor bouldering, you need rubber on your shoes to give yourself more grip. But unless you're climbing world-class sets or love overhung routes, the Futura toe rand will work just fine.

Thus, if you're doubtful that a pair of Futuras don't have as much rubber as a single Butora Acro, spend an afternoon thinking about it and decide if you really need to toe hook that often. The answer is likely no. The Futura is one the narrowest shoes La Sportiva make so consequently the toe box is pretty tight-fitting.

The Futuras toe box feels lower volume than the Skwama compared to other popular La Sportiva shoes built for similar intended uses. It is also worth noting that those who have a "Greek foot", where the long toe (second toe) is longer than the hallux (big toe), will struggle to make any No-Edge shoe work for their feet.

The La Sportiva Futura - Heel

The Futuras feature a fairly basic heel pocket. It is more sensitive than the molded ball heel on the Solutions, but surprisingly performs just as well. The main nag I have with the Futura’s heel is that it can feel shallow, especially if you have aggressively downsized the shoe.

While it does work well enough, this lack of confidence isn't hugely inspiring and doesn't give you much to go off of.

Surprisingly, the Futura heel is comfortable right away, given that it's a high-performance shoe. If you're not crack-climbing in them though, they should be just fine. This can't always be said for other shoes in its class, like Scarpa's Instinct line.

The heel usually doesn't take too long to soften and become comfortable. This is great because it means the shoe can be tolerable for a longer period of time, which comes in handy when you're planning on wearing them for an extended amount of time.

The Rubber of the La Sportiva Futura

The Futura comes with Vibram XS Grip 2. The 3mm rubber is one of the thinnest coatings available and provides outstanding sensitivity. There will be a break-in period for both the shoe to soften up, and for you to get used to the increased sensitivity; however, this process is relatively quick on the Futuras due to the thinner 3mm coating.

Some climbers dislike the No-Edge toe design because it cannot be resoled; therefore, they feel as though they are capping the lifespan of their shoe with the lifespan of their rubber. However, this drawback is somewhat offset by the fact that, in theory, the No-Edge design will help your rubber last longer than conventional-edged designs.

But in practice, what I found out was that No-Edge shoes wear out just as quickly as any other type of shoe. Even in tough conditions like alpine granite, they don't last longer than other brands. The only time I could see them lasting longer is on sandstone or polished limestone.

La Sportiva Futura - How They Fit

The Futura is the most comfortable La Sportiva performance shoe I have worn. The fit is precise and snug without being too tight or uncomfortable. It locks your foot in securely and has excellent heel hooking power due to its narrow design.

The toe box isn't as roomy as some other shoes, so if you have wider feet, you may want to look at something like the Solution or the Skwama for a more comfortable fit.

The toe patch is thick enough to provide adequate protection from walls and edges clambering over. The laces also hold your foot firmly in place without any slipping and sliding around. All these factors combined make this one of the most comfortable shoes available.

Overall, the comfort and fit of the Futura are outstanding, even when compared to other La Sportiva models. It's easy to see why this shoe has become a classic among climbers. It's both technical and comfortable enough for long routes, but still capable of handling short boulder problems or slabs with ease. And that makes it a great option for almost any type of climbing.

Value For Money

The La Sportiva Futura isn't the cheapest shoe on the market, but it is one of the best. It's designed to take a beating and still perform well. The No-Edge design gives you incredible sensitivity for those tiny footholds, while the stiff midsole gives you great edging power when you need it.

The Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber is durable and grippy on all types of surfaces, making it a good choice for just about any type of climbing. The fit is comfortable enough for long routes, yet precise enough for short problems or slabs.

So if you're looking for an all-around workhorse of a shoe, the La Sportiva Futura is a great choice. It's not cheap, but it will perform well and last you a long time - making it great value for money in the long run.

La Sportiva Futura vs Solution

The La Sportiva Futura and Solution are two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market. Both are excellent performers, but each has its own strengths and weaknesses.

The Futura is more precise than the Solution, with a narrower fit that locks your foot in place for maximum edging power. It's also surprisingly comfortable for a performance shoe, thanks to the thick toe patch and snug laces.

The Solution has a wider fit, making it a better choice for those with wide feet. It also has excellent heel hooking ability due to its downturned shape. On the other hand, it lacks the precision of the Futura, so it's not as good for edging.

Overall, the Futura is better suited to steep routes or bouldering problems where precision and power are needed. The Solution is more comfortable for wider feet, and best for long routes or vertical slabs.

Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference - but both shoes are excellent performers in their own right.

La Sportiva Futura vs Theory

The La Sportiva Futura and Theory are two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market. Both offer a combination of comfort, support, and grip that make them ideal for both beginner and advanced climbers alike.

The La Sportiva Futura has an asymmetrical shape that helps it to naturally fit into your foot, while the Theory has a more rounded shape for extra comfort. The Futura also features an elastic closure system that makes it easier to take on and off, while the Theory uses a standard lace-up closure.

In terms of grip, both shoes have Vibram XS Edge rubber soles that provide excellent traction on all types of rock surfaces. However, the Futura has a slightly more aggressive profile that helps it to perform better on overhanging and technical routes.

In terms of comfort, both shoes are very comfortable and supportive. The Futura is made from a combination of leather and synthetic materials, while the Theory is made from microfiber for added breathability. The Futura also has an integrated tongue that helps to reduce pressure points in the foot, while the Theory has a velcro closure system.

Overall, both the La Sportiva Futura and Theory are excellent climbing shoes. While the Futura has a slightly more aggressive profile, both offer great grip and comfort.

La Sportiva Futura vs Genius

The rubber on the toe of both shoes, the Genius and Futura are made for toe hooking. They're not nearly as good as the Solution but still better than Testarossa. I use Futuras when indoor climbing and Genius shoes for outdoor steep sport climbs.

The toe box on the Genius is wider and more symmetric than the Futura, which fits my foot differently. The Genius is also a little more supportive overall and less sensitive. However, both shoes are much more sensitive than the Solution.

The midsole of both shoes is similar, with the Genius being a bit softer. Both shoes are stiff enough to edge well but have enough flexibility for smearing.

The Verdict

If you're looking for a dependable purchase, Futuras are the way to go. They don't offer the same edging capabilities as a Genius would, though they make up for it in comfort.

The No-Edge design, the sensitivity of the rubber, and the comfortable fit all come together to make this one of La Sportiva's best shoes. The Futura shoes are versatile and comfortable, but if you're looking for a shoe that specializes in one thing or another, there are much better options out there.

Is La Sportiva Futura Good for Bouldering?

Yes, the La Sportiva Futura is a great choice for bouldering. The No-Edge design gives you incredible sensitivity and precision on small footholds, while the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber offers exceptional grip and durability.

The laces offer a snug fit that locks your foot in securely, and the toe patch adds comfort and protection from walls and edges. The stiff midsole also gives you great edging power when needed.

Can La Sportiva Futura Be Resoled?

No. Unfortunately, the La Sportiva Futura cannot be resoled. The No-Edge design means that there is no edge for a resole to attach to, which makes it impossible to add new rubber onto the shoe.

The article La Sportiva Futura Review – Climbed & Tested was originally published to ROCKCLIMBINGLIFE

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