What is Simul Climbing? Everything You Need to Know

Simul climbing is a mountaineering technique in which two or more climbers move together up a slope or face using a single rope.

In this article, we will discuss what simul climbing is, how it works, and the benefits and drawbacks of using this technique.

So, What is Simul Climbing?

What is Simul Climbing? Simul climbing, also known as simultaneous climbing, is a technique where two or more climbers simultaneously move up a rock face whilst tied to the same rope. Protection is placed by the first climber and removed by the last.

This allows for a faster ascent of the route and a greater sense of camaraderie between the climbers.

Simul climbing can be done on both trad (traditional) and sports routes. However, Trad climbing requires more planning and protection, as no bolted anchors are in place. 

Sports routes have fixed anchors at intervals, making them easier to protect. However, both types of climbs still require a good deal of skill and experience.

Simul climbing is often used when climbing big walls or working a pitch requiring multiple attempts. It can save time and energy by allowing the leader to climb without stopping to belay, and it can be used to move faster in rugged terrain.

Simul Climbing Vs. Traditional Climbing

The main difference between simul climbing and traditional climbing is that, in simul climbing, both climbers are always moving. Traditional climbing involves stopping to place protection and belay the second climber.

Simul climbing can be done with or without a belay, while traditional climbing always uses a belay. This means simul-climbing is faster and can be done in more challenging terrain. However, it also means less protection if one climber falls.

Simul climbing is often used on big walls or when working a difficult pitch. It can save time and energy by allowing the leader to climb without stopping to belay, and it can be used to move faster in difficult terrain.

The Pros and Cons of Simul Climbing

Simul climbing has both pros and cons. The main pro is that it saves time. Since both climbers constantly move, there is no need to stop and belay the second climber. This can save time on big walls or when working a difficult pitch.

The main con of simul climbing is that it is more dangerous. Since both climbers constantly move, there is less protection if one climber falls. This is why simul-climbing is often only done on easy pitches or when the leader is very experienced.

Simul climbing can be a great time saver, but weighing the pros and cons before deciding if it is right for you is essential.

The Basics of Simul Climbing

Simul climbing is a technique where all climbers move simultaneously while tied to the same rope. Protection is placed by the first climber and removed by the last. It can be done with or without belaying, depending on the situation.

To simul-climb, both climbers tie into the same rope and start climbing. The first climber places protection as they rise, and the second climber follows. The second climber does not belay the first, but they remove the protection as they climb.

Simul climbing can be done with or without a belay, but it is generally considered more dangerous without a belay. This is because there is less protection if one climber falls.

Simul climbing is often used on big walls or when working a difficult pitch. It can save time and energy by allowing the leader to climb without stopping to belay, and it can be used to move faster in difficult terrain.

Climbing at Different Speeds – The Accordion Effect

One of the challenges of simul climbing is that the climbers must climb at the same speed. If one climber is faster than the other, they will either have to wait for the slower climber to catch up, or they will pull ahead and create what is known as the "accordion effect."

The accordion effect occurs when the faster climber pulls too far ahead of, the slower climber. This can cause the rope to become tight, making it difficult for the slower climber to move.

To avoid the accordion effect, climbers must be careful to climb at the same speed. This isn't easy, especially if one climber is faster than the other.

Using Progress-Capture Devices

Progress-capture devices or assisted braking belay device, such as the Trango Cinch, can be used to help climbers simul climb at the same speed. The usage of these devices is more efficient than belayed climbing.

These devices attach to the rope and automatically lock when pulled tight. This prevents the faster climber from pulling too far ahead and creates more even tension on the rope.

If one climber falls, the progress-capture device will automatically lock and stop the fall. This can be a lifesaver, especially if the fall is extended or in difficult terrain.

Types of Progress-Capture Devices

Trango Cinch

There are many progress-capture devices, but the Trango Cinch is one of the most popular. It is a lightweight device that is easy to use and can be attached to the rope with or without a carabiner.

The Trango Cinch has two locking cams that automatically engage when pulled tight. This prevents the device from slipping and makes it easier to catch a fall.

The Trango Cinch can be used with any rope, but it works best with dynamic ropes as it is very good at lowering rope drag. In addition, this rope length is stretched when pulled, which helps absorb the fall's force.

The GriGri

The Grigri is a popular progress capture device that uses a spring-loaded cam to catch falls. It can be used with any rope but works best with dynamic ropes.

The Grigri is easy to use and can be attached to the belay loop rope with or without a carabiner. In addition, it has a built-in braking system that automatically engages when the cam is activated. This helps to stop the fall quickly and safely.

The Grigri is a good choice for climbers who want a safe, easy-to-use progress capture device. It is especially well-suited for beginner and intermediate climbers.

Dangers of Progress-Capture Devices

Progress-capture devices are not without their risks. For example, if one climber falls, the device will lock and stop the fall. This can be a lifesaver, but it also means that the second climber will be pulled off the wall.

This can be dangerous, especially if the second climber is unprepared for the fall. Therefore, before using a progress-capture device, it is important to be aware of the risks.

Simul Climbing Equipment Breakdown

Simul climbing equipment can be divided into two categories: gear used by the climbers and gear used by the belayer.

Climbing Gear

Climbing gear includes things like helmets, harnesses, and shoes. It is essential to have good quality gear when simul climbing, as there is a greater risk of injury if something goes wrong.

Belaying Gear

Belaying gear includes things like belay devices, carabiners, and ropes. It is essential to use high-quality belaying equipment when simul climbing, as belaying is one of the most important safety procedures in climbing.

Because of the speed at which each climber is moving, belay jackets can also be left behind.

The Simul Climbing Technique

Simul climbing is a technique where two climbers climb simultaneously, with one climber acting as a belayer for the other. This can be done with or without a rope, but it is generally considered more dangerous without a rope.

To simul-climb, the climbers start by tying into the same rope. Then, the lead climber begins climbing, and the second climber follows. The lead climber places protection as they rise, and the second climber removes it when they reach the top.

Simul climbing can be done in various ways, but the most common method is "leader belays second." In this method, the lead climber belays the second climber from below. This is generally considered the safest simul-climbing method, as it gives the lead climber more control over the rope.

The second method of simul climbing is known as "second belays leader." In this method, the second climber belays the lead climber from above. This can be more dangerous, as the second climber has less control over the rope.

The Simul Climbing Setup

The lead climber is the climber who is leading the climb. They are responsible for placing protection and ensuring the rope is rigged correctly. The lead climber also belays the second climber from below.

The follower Climber is the climber who is following the lead climber. They are responsible for removing protection and keeping an eye on the lead climber. The follower also belays the lead climber from below.

The Danger of Simul Climbing

Simul climbing can be hazardous. Because all climbers are tethered to the same rope, if one falls, they all fall. This can result in severe injury or death.

Simul climbing is not for beginner climbers. It should only be attempted by experienced climbers comfortable with the risks. If you are considering simulclimbing, ensure you have a good understanding of the technique and are confident in your ability to do it safely.

Falls

Falling while simul-climbing is often much higher than falls while traditional climbing, so the consequences can be more severe. This is a similar issue found when free climbing. Therefore, it is essential to be extra careful when simul climbing and take all necessary precautions.

Awareness

When simul-climbing, being aware of your surroundings and the people around you is crucial. If a follower falls, say, you need to be able to react quickly and stop yourself from falling.

Unroping

Once you have reached the top of the climb, it is crucial to unclip from the rope carefully. You can fall while unclipping and injure yourself or your partner if you are not careful.

FAQ's - What is Simul Climbing?

How Do You Simul Climb With Micro Traxion?

One of the tricks for laying another second into a short crux is to put the Micro Traxion on the piece of cover before the second comes in. Afterward, tie the rope tightly. Then, after finishing, climb again.

How to Simul Climb?

Basic simulator climbing. Leaders begin to climb. . When the leader climbs the entire length of the available rope, the belayer starts climbing.

They climb at precisely the same speed with the ropes still in place. This technique can significantly speed up multi-pitch ascents.

What is Short-Fixing Climbing?

Short Fixing is the only technique that separates climbing groups into two roped soloist teams through knots attached to a hook enabling them to move at once. It is generally used for day climbing on large wall walls or for faster climbing for multiday ascents.

What is A Running Belay?

Simultane climbing, also called the running belay, is a climbing technique where a climber climbs in tandem while holding onto the same rope. First, protection will be given to one person in the rope climbing team; the other person will remove the gear.

What is Simul Rappelling?

Simul Rappelling is a technique where two or more climbers rappel simultaneously while tied to the same rope. The lead climber places protection, and the second climber follows, removing protection. This can be done with multiple climbers on the same rope, but it is typically only done with two.

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