What is a Boulder Problem?

A boulder problem is an obstacle that a climber must overcome to complete their ascent. Sometimes the solution is as simple as finding a new grip or foothold, while other times, it might require more complex maneuvers like working your way through cracks or under roofs.

In this article, we'll look at some of the different types of problems that climbers may encounter and how they can be overcome.

So, What is a Bouldering Problem?

So, What is a Bouldering Problem? In bouldering, a problem is a specific sequence of moves you must complete to reach the top of the boulder. Bouldering problems are usually shorter and more potent than routes in other disciplines, and they often require precise techniques.

As with all climbing problems, the best way to start is by looking at the boulder and trying to figure out the best way to climb it.

Once you have a plan, it's time to start climbing! If you can't figure out the sequence of moves on your own, don't worry - there are plenty of resources (including this website!) that can help you.

Just remember, the best way to learn is by doing. So get out there and start climbing!

Why Is a Bouldering Route Called a "Problem"?

Bouldering routes are called problems because they take some figuring out. Before physically starting the route, we must study it and find the best way to climb.

Figuring out a problem makes rock climbing, specifically bouldering, challenging and fun. But, unfortunately, it also makes climbing one of the most mentally demanding sports.

To solve a problem, we have to be creative and analytical at the same time. We need to develop a plan, assess the risks, and execute the plan while doing the dynamic movements and using the artificial holds flawlessly.

Ultimately, it doesn't matter how you get to the top as long as you enjoy the process and feel proud of your achievement. So next time you're struggling on a route, remember - you're meant to be struggling, and it's all part of the fun!

Are There Different Types of Boulder Problems?

Yes! There are several different types of boulder problems, each with unique challenges.

Here are a few of the most common:

• Slab Problems: Slab problems are often the most accessible type of boulder problem, as they usually involve gentle, friction-based moves. However, don't be fooled - slab climbing can be deceptively tricky, and even the most accessible slab problems can test your patience and technique.
• Overhang Problems: Overhang problems are when the climbing walls you are climbing is at an angle greater than 90 degrees from the ground. This can make for some physically demanding boulder problems, as you often use your arms and core muscles to keep yourself from falling backward.
• Traverse: A traverse is a horizontal problem that typically follows a line across the face of the boulder. These problems can be deceptively tricky, requiring good balance and precise footwork (while you're wearing climbing shoes ofc!).
• Ceiling/Roof Problems: Ceiling problems are when the top of the boulder is lower than the highest point you can reach with your arms extended overhead. This can make for some tricky sequences, as you often have to find creative ways to get your hands and feet in the right places.
• Arête Problems: Arête problems are when the edge of the boulder is your only handhold. This problem can be a complex type of problem to master, as it requires precise footwork and a good understanding of body positioning.

What is Considered a High Problem, Low Problem?

The uppermost limit for a bouldering problem is 20 feet (6 meters). However, some consider 8 feet (2 ½ meters) quite tall, while any problem taller than 15 feet (4 ½ meters) would be classified as a highball wall problem.

Always use a spotter when attempting problems high off the ground--a fall from these heights could result in serious injury. If you're planning to attempt a highball problem, carefully prepare yourself and your equipment beforehand. This is not the time or place to try out new moves.

Who knew that lowball boulder problems existed? These are closer to the ground than average and typically start from sitting or lying down. Although not widely considered attractive, these types of problems can help you practice moves that you wouldn't ordinarily get to try, such as attempting roof problems.

IMPORTANT!: It is best to climb down or descend rather than jump off the wall, as jumping down from any height can damage hips and joints over time.

What is a Highball Boulder Problem?

Highball boulder problems are one of the most challenging and dangerous types of boulders. They are typically taller than 20 feet and often much taller. Due to the height of the boulder and the lack of protection, a fall from a highball can be deadly. As such, climbers must take extreme care when attempting these problems.

One of the most famous highball boulder problems is the "High E" problem in Boulder, Colorado. This problem is so named because it was once considered unreachable for anyone except the world's best climbers.

Tommy Caldwell made his first ascent in 1990. Since then, it has been climbed by many of the world's top climbers. However, the High E problem remains one of the world's most dangerous and challenging climbs.

How Do You Start & End a Bouldering Problem?

When starting a bouldering problem, you should take a few minutes to assess the route and determine the best way to climb it. Once you have a plan, you can start from anywhere on the wall - there is no set starting point.

As you climb, remember to use your feet and legs as much as possible. This will help to save your arms from getting too tired. When you reach the top of the problem, you can either downclimb or jump down. Remember to always jump down - never jump off!

When you're bouldering indoors, you must use a crash pad to protect yourself in case you fall. Outdoor boulders don't usually have this luxury, so be extra careful when bouldering outdoors.

How Are Circuits and Bouldering Problems Related?

A circuit is a body of work consisting of several boulder problems meant to be completed simultaneously. Generally, circuits include numerous problems, which is an excellent way to practice various techniques, build endurance, and shore up weak areas in your bouldering skillset.

To make traversing the obstacle course easier, we've denoted each circuit by the difficulty level using a color-coding system.

When you do a circuit, follow the hold colors. All problems in one circuit will have similar grades, but some will be more difficult (like overhangs, for example).

The numerous circuit options make them an ideal training tool- you can tell where you need more work and hone those skills.

The holds corresponding to a specific circuit will be color-coded and stuck to the wall next to the given hold. For example, most climbing gyms opt for colored holds instead of tape, where every hold in that particular circuit is one solid color.

How are Bouldering Problems Graded?

The V Scale is a numerical grading scale that rates boulder problems on a scale from V0 to V16.

This system is mainly subjective, as different climbers may rate the same problem differently.

However, the V Scale gives you a general idea of the difficulty of a problem and is the scale you're most likely going to see from any indoor bouldering gym in America.

The Font Scale indicates how complex a problem is for short people. Problems are rated on a scale from 1 to 10, with 10 being the most difficult for short people.

The V Scale Rating System

The V Scale is a bouldering grading scales system from V0 to V17 that is effective at rating the easiest bouldering to the hardest boulder problem in the world. It is primarily used in the United States, although it is also gaining popularity in other countries' outdoor bouldering.

The scale was created because Sherman felt that the existing Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) did not accurately reflect the difficulty of bouldering problems. In addition, he wanted a system that would be more intuitive and easier to use.

The V Scale has successfully achieved these goals and is now one of the world's most popular bouldering grading systems.

What Does V Mean in Bouldering?

The 'V' in bouldering grades stands for 'Vermin.' Vermin was the nickname of John Sherman, a legendary boulderer who created the V Scale. Sometimes his nickname was shortened to just 'Verm.

The Font Scale Rating System

The Font Scale is a bouldering climbing gym grading system from 1 to 10, with 10 being the most difficult. It was created in France and is mainly used in Europe.

This system is intended to be more accurate for shorter climbers, as the difficulties of boulder problems can vary significantly based on height.

While the Font Scale is not as widely used as the V Scale, it is gaining popularity in Europe and other countries.

Bouldering Grades vs. Sport Climbing Grades at Climbing Gyms

While both sport climbing and bouldering use grading systems to rate the difficulty of climbing routes, there are some essential differences between the two.

Sport climbing grades are primarily based on the technical difficulty of the moves, while boulder problem grades also consider the strength and endurance required.

In addition, sports climbing grades are typically given in terms of the YDS, while boulder problem grades are given on the V Scale.

Finally, the Font Scale is used mainly for bouldering, while the French grading system is used primarily for sport climbing.

How Are Bouldering Problems Set In The First Place?

Have you ever seen a group of climbers huddled around a particular wall section, moving holds around and discussing various beta options? This is known as setting or designing, a bouldering problem.

The first step in setting a boulder problem is finding a wall that looks climbable. Once you've found your spot, it's time to start thinking about sequences.

This is where the creativity comes in -you need to determine the best way to use the holds and features of the wall to create an exciting and challenging problem. Then, once you have a sequence, it's time to start putting upholds.

The next step is attaching holds to the wall to allow you to climb the problem as intended. This generally involves bolting or screwing the holds into the wall. Once all the holds are in place, you're ready to start climbing!

Of course, setting a bouldering problem is no easy feat- it takes time, effort, and a lot of trial and error to create a quality problem.

Famous Bouldering Problems

There are many famous bouldering problems worldwide, ranging in difficulty from V0 to V17.

Famous Boulder Problems in America

Slashface (V3/6A/A+), Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park is renowned for both its roped climbs and boulder problems, the latter of which includes world-famous climbs like Slashface.

Slashface climbs the central, vertical wall of an easy-to-spot boulder near Jerry’s Quarry. The first person to scale it was Stonemaster John Bachar. The climbing route is just under 8 metres tall. It involves holding onto diagonal cracks, working through a low section that presents the most difficulty, and finally finishing with a challenging mantel move at the top.

Midnight Lightning (V8/7B+), Yosemite National Park

Ron Kaulk and John Bachar put months of effort into conquering the Columbia Boulder before they succeeded in 1978. They christened it 'Midnight Lightning' because, to them, climbing it felt as unlikely as being struck by lightning at midnight.

Freerider, El Capitan (V9/7C+), Yosemite National Park

El Capitan is one of the most popular big walls in Yosemite National Park and has been climbed by some of the world’s most famous climbers.

The El Capitan Freerider follows a line of cracks and traverses across wide-open faces on its way up El Cap Freerider. The El Capitan Freerider route is approximately 1,400 meters tall and has an average grade of 5.12a/b, with some sections reaching up to 5.13a/b.

The Thimble (V5/6C), Custer State Park

John Gill's first ascent of the Thimble is a historic boulder problem that must be included on any list of his contributions to bouldering.

The boulder problem is, technically, a highball. When John Gill ascended it in 1961 there were no crash pads - and his ascent remained unrepeated for more than 20 years after that. Making the feat even more admirable.

The Orb (V8), Rocktown, Georgia

The Orb, which many climbers deem the most well-known Southern region boulder problem, is often photographed because of its uncanny resemblance to a UFO.

Although we do not know who made the first ascent, The problem begins with a roof on low jugs and continues up through the right side on glorious slopers complimented by open-hand crimps and a toe hook. There are two cruxes: one between slopers and the other being the top out.

There are many other famous boulder problems in America, including the Diamond (V4), Rocky Mountain National Park, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Colorado; Ragged Edge (V4), Boulder, Colorado; Castlewood Canyon State Park, Colorado; Nemesis (V8), Vedauwoo, Wyoming.

Famous Boulder Problems in Europe

Rainbow Rocket (V11/8A), Fontainebleau, France

The Rainbow Rocket features a dyno known across the globe. Alexis Allayaud made the first ascent today and did not utilize beta climbers for help, making his climb even more impressive. The move itself is about 250 centimeters from start to finish.

Burden of Dreams (V17/9A), Lappnor, Finland

After spending four years projecting the moves, Nalle Hukkataival climbed the world's first 9A boulder in 2016. The 45-degree overhanging face had no features and was considered the world's most challenging modern bouldering problem. Just five complex moves make up Burden of Dreams, reminiscent of old-school style bouldering.

Red Baron (7A+), Shipley Glen

The Red Baron is a popular Yorkshire grit challenge that goes up an easily visible hanging arete feature. Mike Hammil completed the first ascent in 1976, but since then, there have been many more variations of the original route, including the Red Baron Roof and the Dead Baron.

Livin’ Large (V15/8C), Rocklands, South Africa

Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival completed the first ascent of Livin’ Large in 2009. The project was codenamed “Big Real” up to its completion. The 8-meter boulder problem comprises 24 moves on an exquisite arete that ends with a crux on the last move.

There are many other famous bouldering locations all over the world, including The testpiece problem Directissima (V8) in Magic Wood, Switzerland; La Noire de Tuin (V12/8A+) in Céüse, France; and es Pontas (V15/8C) in Mallorca, Spain.

Why Are They Called Routes in Rock Climbing but Problems in Bouldering?

The terms 'route' and 'problem' describe different things in rock climbing.

A 'route' is typically a longer, more endurance-based climb that follows a specific path up a rock face. In contrast, a 'problem' is usually a shorter, more powerful climb that follows a specific sequence of moves.

The term 'problem' is used more frequently in bouldering, as the shorter, more powerful climbs represent the style. However, the term 'route' can still be used when referring to a bouldering problem.

In general, the term 'problem' is used to describe a bouldering climb, while the term 'route' is used to describe a sport or traditional climb.

Summary

In this article, we've discussed what a problem is in rock climbing, how they are categorized by difficulty, and how they are set in the first place. We hope this has given you a better understanding of the sport and that you'll be inspired to try out some problems of your own

FAQ's

Can You Use the Top of the Wall When Bouldering?

It's generally accepted throughout the bouldering community that within a climbing gym that using the top of the wall is cheating and is not to be done. This is because it takes away from the challenge that the problem-setter initially intended.

In an outdoor setting, however, things are a bit different. While many still believe that using the top of the wall takes away from the challenge, others see it as simply taking a different way to complete the problem.

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